Vermont: A State of Mind

Vermont: A Different State of Mind
Text and Photos by Gary (Koz) Mraz


Modern life is packaged into 30 days divided by 24 hours, sliced to 60 minutes and shredded again so that each second has some measurable meaning. Or is time relative as Albert Einstein professed:"Put your hand on a hot stove for a minute and it feels like an hour. Spend an hour talking to a pretty girl and it feels like a minute. That's relativity.”

Riding into Vermont you notice that time has slowed down relative to wherever you just came from. Not much has changed here in 200 years. Really! Population density has grown little, there are no billboards, and it has the only capital city in America without a MacDonald’s. You can legally carry loaded weapons and walk around naked. Sure the method of transportation has turned from one live horse into a high octane 85 HP steel steed but Vermont still is truly a different state of mind. Offering some of the best views around flatlanders always ask, “Where is a good place to ride”? The answer is, anywhere, just pick a direction. My direction is south on route 7 from Rutland to Arlington. Home to the only Carthusian Monastery in the western hemisphere, to painter Norman Rockwell and poet Robert Frost. We will loop east then north to Woodstock via the fabulous RT 100.

Ground zero is Outdoors in Motion in Rutland, the only Victory motorcycle dealership in Vermont. Owners Jan and Del Downing have been riders for over 35 years and are active members of the South West freedom Riders. I like riding Victory motorcycles and called them from California about a possible rental. Unlike Harley Davidson Victory does not have a dealer rental program (though they should). After chatting up a little local lore Del said I should just take his own personal Kingpin. Now that’s hospitality and I jumped at the chance. I’ve ridden all flavors of motorcycles and have a Sporty and Road King in the garage but I really like these Victories. With the release of the new Vision you will be hearing allot more about these bikes. I can’t even tell you why, I’m no gear heard, just a rider. Is the center of gravity creating better maneuverability and handling? Is their rising–rate rear suspension creating such a smooth ride? Is it the 100 cubic inch V-Twin engine that really pulls in every gear? (And I do like six of them). Am I more confident with the responsive braking of those Brembos? Can someone please tell me because I can rent a Harley anywhere but riding these roads seemed fitting for a Victory. Jan and Del gave me a tour of their town and escorted me to Rt 7 for the first leg of the trek.


This Southern part of Hwy 7 (Ethan Allen Highway) is a sweeping well-paved 2-lane highway. Its very spacious here, there’s really no sign of human habitation. Mountains and rolling hills undulate beneath you. This serene solitude begins to lull you into that Vermont state of mind. Arlington is only 45 miles from Rutland but you float forever on this endless rolling ribbon between the sea of green pine hills and an azure blue sky. Remember that relative time thing I mentioned earlier? I notice that Vermonters obey the speed limit, everywhere all the time. Although temptation for acceleration pulls at your throttle wrist every beautifully banked curve, don’t do it. Don’t do it because you think the Vermont State Police are lurking behind every billboard, they’re not (remember there are no billboards in Vermont). They drive the speed limit because they’re in no hurry. They are actually enjoying the pristine green panoramas that surround them…. and so should you.

The 7a branches off into Arlington. The Carthusian Monks own an enormous amount of land and allow visitor access via a paved road to the top of their hill. A massive granite hermitage lies hidden, inaccessible in Ethos Valley. The Cross is steady while the world turns is their motto and for nine centuries (yes I said 900 years) the Carthusian way of life has changed very little. They are strictly cloistered monks who spend most of their time alone in their cells studying religious texts. When it comes to that Einstein relative time thing Vermonters got nothing on these folks.


Item of interest: The Carthusian Monks make CHARTREUSE LIQUER. Following extremely complex the secret formula is supposedly only known by 3 monks. It contains 130 different herbs and is110 proof.



Also in Arlington is the Norman Rockwell Exhibition and Gift shop. Formerly a church the ceilings are beautifully painted. I was fortunate enough to meet Pauline Belle Adams (no relation to the aforementioned Addams family). She posed for me, next to a painting that she posed for Norman some 50 years ago. His main street America series were done here and over 200 local residents posed for his portraits. Park the trusty steed, slide off the saddle and steep in Arlington’s history.

In need of lunch I pulled into the South Side Café and was pleasantly surprised by a very extensive menu. Always expecting house salad and french-fries for my vegetarian palette I ordered the Soba Noodles with Ratatouille. Made with fresh tomatoes, eggplant, squash, onions, garlic, sweet peppers, herbs and olive oil over buckwheat soba noodles. With such a generous portion and the fantastic garlic bread I took half home for dinner that night. Forgetting my map on this jaunt I need mention that the waitress gave me the best directions to my next destination that I have ever gotten from a Vermonter. Reflecting on this relative space and time thing, they are so incredibly in tune with their own landscape that two turns and up a hill past the four pines is really eighteen miles away.
Almost lulled into a Carthusian trance I recall the words of another famous Vermonter, poet Robert Frost who is buried in nearby Bennington.
The woods are lovely, dark, and deep, But I have promises to keep, And miles to go before I sleep, And miles to go before I sleep.

Nudity has become national news as of late in Bennington and Brattleborough. Really, if you think about it, with such short summers I say let them enjoy all the sun they can get any where the want it. Tempted to cruise the local Bennington Park to check out what all the fuss is about I realize I also have miles to go before I sleep and head towards the famous Rt 100. If you’re feeling adventurous there is a dirt back road that’s closed in the winter. 60 percent of Vermont’s roads are dirt and most are actually very well maintained. It’s a longer ride at 20 to 30 Mph but remember we are in Vermont. I opt for the 11 to Londonderry. Route 100 is considered to be one of the best motorcycling roads in Vermont. It’s all the sights, smells, twists and turns you might expect. You will pass every photograph (or painting) you’ve ever seen of any small New England American town. Some of which have a speed limit of 25Mph (which you will obey). This small road looks like a long winding ride on the map but you’re talking to Albert Einstein’s beautiful girl and as you feel the exhilaration and excitement of the next turn, the next hill and the next village the road suddenly ends. How can this possibly be, this must be a mistake but no, you’ve T-Boned highway 4 and Woodstock is only 10 miles away. Woodstock is beautiful but should I turn around? There’s another hour of light, I could ride this road again….now I’m sitting on a hot stove. I guess I’ll settle for Pigs Ear Brown Ale at the Woodstock Inn and savor the ride. Only about 150 miles round trip it’s a full day if riding in the right state of mind.Somewhere between Einstein’s hot stoves and pretty girls Vermont suspends time. She retains a genuine esthetic heritage and there’s a quiet solace in the voluptuous curves of this green mountain state. Well-maintained roads snake through some of the lushest vistas a rider could request. Typically uncrowded roadways complete this motorcycling paradise. Relative to today’s high-speed digital download mentality; Vermont really is a different State of mind.