FREE TIBET

Live Free, Ride Free
The world watched anxiously as a single student held back the entire Chinese Red Army for one short moment. The Tiananmen Square massacre on June 4th 1989 was a lens into Chinas communist philosophy. It’s believed that thousands of innocent Chinese students were gunned down on that day. I was among the first Americans invited to perform in Communist China only four months later. We each had out own interpreter (Security) and the itinerary was strict. In between our concerts for 17 thousand Chinese nightly we played a special concert for Chinese government officials. At the subsequent dinner I asked candid questions to an officer seated near me. “Why did China roll in with tanks and subdue the students with violence?” My interpreter nervously translated to the high ranking army official. He peered into my eyes and responded directly without hesitation or emotion. “China has no homeless, everyone is fed yet we are unattached to world economics. One small shift can completely alter the balance of our social stability. That will not happen.” I asked him about the Chinese response to the return of Hong Kong by Britain in 1997. He replied, “We will roll in with Tanks.” That they did.

While sipping Hefeweitzen in Munich Germany in November of 1989 the news broke that the Berlin wall was coming down. Destruction of this sinister symbol of isolation and control freed Russia from communism. The Chinese official was right, it was a small shift that changes the social stability. I think a political shift may be in the stars for Tibet.

I’m an American, I’m a motorcyclist and I live free, ride free and am heading to Tibet to motorcycle the Himalayas for two weeks. Forcefully annexed by the Chinese decades ago suddenly its De Ja Vu all over again. Here come the tanks, this time its monks being killed but even more seems at stake this massacre. 20 years’ later Communist China is inexorably attached to the economics of the world and the world is watching.

Sunday March 9th 2008 His Holiness the Dalai Lama participated in the prayer ceremony in Darhamsala yesterday to mark the 19th anniversary of the imposition of martial law in Lhasa on March 8th 1989. The same year he was given the Nobel Peace Prize.

Friday March 15th. Riots in Lhasa again remind the world Tibet is a country in turmoil since the invasion by China in 1959. ”Some ignorant monks led by a small handful of people did some illegal things that can challenge social stability" foreign ministry spokesman Qin Gang said. "To safeguard national security and social order is the responsibility of our judiciary and law enforcing departments. We will continue to combat any illegal activities" he said. Over 300 monks and Nuns were arrested and at least 30 people killed.

Saturday march 16th. On Saturday morning the first images appeared on the popular U.S Video site Youtube along with video streamed foreign news reports, photos, and commentary. Then suddenly all of China’s 210 million Internet users who try to access the U.S based video site will only get a blank screen.

Sunday March 17th 2008 BEIJING (Reuters) - Rioting erupted in a province neighboring Tibet on Sunday, two days after violent protests by Tibetans against Chinese rule in Lhasa in which the region's exiled representatives said 80 people had been killed. Tibet's spiritual leader, the Dalai Lama, said the Tibetan nation was in serious danger and called for an investigation into what he called cultural genocide in his homeland.
Monday March 18th 2008 China has prohibited the entry of foreigners to Tibet and asked the tourists currently there to leave. This in response to the wake of the worst-ever violence in two decades in region's capital stemming from pro-independence protests.
Within two weeks the Olympic torch (lit in Greece on March 25th) is to be brought to the top of Mt Everest in Tibet. No applications for climbing Mount Everest between March and June are being accepted because of the torch relay. No matter whether you're an individual or group, it's impossible to get permission to climb the mountain during the period.

China has much at stake in the new global economy, as do we. America has handed her torch of liberty to a communist country that’s burning down our house. And we don’t even smell the smoke. Watch with cautious eyes, listen with lucid ears and ask for the truth. If I ride Tibet I will live free, ride free and tell her story.

Vermont: A State of Mind

Vermont: A Different State of Mind
Text and Photos by Gary (Koz) Mraz


Modern life is packaged into 30 days divided by 24 hours, sliced to 60 minutes and shredded again so that each second has some measurable meaning. Or is time relative as Albert Einstein professed:"Put your hand on a hot stove for a minute and it feels like an hour. Spend an hour talking to a pretty girl and it feels like a minute. That's relativity.”

Riding into Vermont you notice that time has slowed down relative to wherever you just came from. Not much has changed here in 200 years. Really! Population density has grown little, there are no billboards, and it has the only capital city in America without a MacDonald’s. You can legally carry loaded weapons and walk around naked. Sure the method of transportation has turned from one live horse into a high octane 85 HP steel steed but Vermont still is truly a different state of mind. Offering some of the best views around flatlanders always ask, “Where is a good place to ride”? The answer is, anywhere, just pick a direction. My direction is south on route 7 from Rutland to Arlington. Home to the only Carthusian Monastery in the western hemisphere, to painter Norman Rockwell and poet Robert Frost. We will loop east then north to Woodstock via the fabulous RT 100.

Ground zero is Outdoors in Motion in Rutland, the only Victory motorcycle dealership in Vermont. Owners Jan and Del Downing have been riders for over 35 years and are active members of the South West freedom Riders. I like riding Victory motorcycles and called them from California about a possible rental. Unlike Harley Davidson Victory does not have a dealer rental program (though they should). After chatting up a little local lore Del said I should just take his own personal Kingpin. Now that’s hospitality and I jumped at the chance. I’ve ridden all flavors of motorcycles and have a Sporty and Road King in the garage but I really like these Victories. With the release of the new Vision you will be hearing allot more about these bikes. I can’t even tell you why, I’m no gear heard, just a rider. Is the center of gravity creating better maneuverability and handling? Is their rising–rate rear suspension creating such a smooth ride? Is it the 100 cubic inch V-Twin engine that really pulls in every gear? (And I do like six of them). Am I more confident with the responsive braking of those Brembos? Can someone please tell me because I can rent a Harley anywhere but riding these roads seemed fitting for a Victory. Jan and Del gave me a tour of their town and escorted me to Rt 7 for the first leg of the trek.


This Southern part of Hwy 7 (Ethan Allen Highway) is a sweeping well-paved 2-lane highway. Its very spacious here, there’s really no sign of human habitation. Mountains and rolling hills undulate beneath you. This serene solitude begins to lull you into that Vermont state of mind. Arlington is only 45 miles from Rutland but you float forever on this endless rolling ribbon between the sea of green pine hills and an azure blue sky. Remember that relative time thing I mentioned earlier? I notice that Vermonters obey the speed limit, everywhere all the time. Although temptation for acceleration pulls at your throttle wrist every beautifully banked curve, don’t do it. Don’t do it because you think the Vermont State Police are lurking behind every billboard, they’re not (remember there are no billboards in Vermont). They drive the speed limit because they’re in no hurry. They are actually enjoying the pristine green panoramas that surround them…. and so should you.

The 7a branches off into Arlington. The Carthusian Monks own an enormous amount of land and allow visitor access via a paved road to the top of their hill. A massive granite hermitage lies hidden, inaccessible in Ethos Valley. The Cross is steady while the world turns is their motto and for nine centuries (yes I said 900 years) the Carthusian way of life has changed very little. They are strictly cloistered monks who spend most of their time alone in their cells studying religious texts. When it comes to that Einstein relative time thing Vermonters got nothing on these folks.


Item of interest: The Carthusian Monks make CHARTREUSE LIQUER. Following extremely complex the secret formula is supposedly only known by 3 monks. It contains 130 different herbs and is110 proof.



Also in Arlington is the Norman Rockwell Exhibition and Gift shop. Formerly a church the ceilings are beautifully painted. I was fortunate enough to meet Pauline Belle Adams (no relation to the aforementioned Addams family). She posed for me, next to a painting that she posed for Norman some 50 years ago. His main street America series were done here and over 200 local residents posed for his portraits. Park the trusty steed, slide off the saddle and steep in Arlington’s history.

In need of lunch I pulled into the South Side Café and was pleasantly surprised by a very extensive menu. Always expecting house salad and french-fries for my vegetarian palette I ordered the Soba Noodles with Ratatouille. Made with fresh tomatoes, eggplant, squash, onions, garlic, sweet peppers, herbs and olive oil over buckwheat soba noodles. With such a generous portion and the fantastic garlic bread I took half home for dinner that night. Forgetting my map on this jaunt I need mention that the waitress gave me the best directions to my next destination that I have ever gotten from a Vermonter. Reflecting on this relative space and time thing, they are so incredibly in tune with their own landscape that two turns and up a hill past the four pines is really eighteen miles away.
Almost lulled into a Carthusian trance I recall the words of another famous Vermonter, poet Robert Frost who is buried in nearby Bennington.
The woods are lovely, dark, and deep, But I have promises to keep, And miles to go before I sleep, And miles to go before I sleep.

Nudity has become national news as of late in Bennington and Brattleborough. Really, if you think about it, with such short summers I say let them enjoy all the sun they can get any where the want it. Tempted to cruise the local Bennington Park to check out what all the fuss is about I realize I also have miles to go before I sleep and head towards the famous Rt 100. If you’re feeling adventurous there is a dirt back road that’s closed in the winter. 60 percent of Vermont’s roads are dirt and most are actually very well maintained. It’s a longer ride at 20 to 30 Mph but remember we are in Vermont. I opt for the 11 to Londonderry. Route 100 is considered to be one of the best motorcycling roads in Vermont. It’s all the sights, smells, twists and turns you might expect. You will pass every photograph (or painting) you’ve ever seen of any small New England American town. Some of which have a speed limit of 25Mph (which you will obey). This small road looks like a long winding ride on the map but you’re talking to Albert Einstein’s beautiful girl and as you feel the exhilaration and excitement of the next turn, the next hill and the next village the road suddenly ends. How can this possibly be, this must be a mistake but no, you’ve T-Boned highway 4 and Woodstock is only 10 miles away. Woodstock is beautiful but should I turn around? There’s another hour of light, I could ride this road again….now I’m sitting on a hot stove. I guess I’ll settle for Pigs Ear Brown Ale at the Woodstock Inn and savor the ride. Only about 150 miles round trip it’s a full day if riding in the right state of mind.Somewhere between Einstein’s hot stoves and pretty girls Vermont suspends time. She retains a genuine esthetic heritage and there’s a quiet solace in the voluptuous curves of this green mountain state. Well-maintained roads snake through some of the lushest vistas a rider could request. Typically uncrowded roadways complete this motorcycling paradise. Relative to today’s high-speed digital download mentality; Vermont really is a different State of mind.